Riviera Ligure
- The Riviera di Levante is the coast east of Genoa. Despite their
evident popularity it ensures pretty walking and dramatic scenery.
The green lands around Portofino, Italy’s wealthiest promontory
38km east of Genoa, are protected by the Parco Naturale Regionale
di Portofino. Wandering Camogli’s alleys and cobbled streets,
25km east of Genoa, it is hard not to be taken aback by the painstaking
trompe l’oeil decoration. From hear, boats nip across to Punta
Chiappi, a rocky crop on the Portofino promontory. San Fruttuoso is
dominated by the Benedictine abbey Abbazia di San Fruttuoso di Capodimonte.
San Fruttuoso is only accessibile on foot from Camogli or Portofino.
Portofino is Liguria’s most chichi spot. The huddle of pastel-coloured
houses around the portside square is a delight. Heading north along
the coastal road is the Abbazia della Cervara, which is surrounded
by monumental gardens. Santa Margherita is known for its orange blossoms
and lace. In a sheltered bay on the eastern side of Portofino promontory
on the Golfo di Tigullio, its waterfront is a jumble of one-time fishing
cottages, elegant hotels with Liberty facades and moored million-dollar
yachts. Sailing, waterskiing, scuba diving and walking opportunities
abound. Rapallo, overlooking the Gulf of Tigullio, has an air of bustle
independent of tourists that towns further down the promontory lack.
Bright blue changing cabins line its sandy beach and lend the palm-tree-studded
waterfront an old-fashioned air. The stretch of coast between the
Portofino promontory and the Cinque Terre has some of the Riviera
di Levante’s best beaches, although the rash of resorts –
Chiavari, Lavagna, Sestri Levante, Deiva Marina and Levanto. Chiavari,
with an arcaded old town is the main access point inland.
La Spezia is a large naval base and a provincial capital. The city
centre is sandwiched between the naval base and the commercial port.
Porto Venere is 12km south of La Spezia. At the end of the quay a
Cinque Terre panorama unfolds from the rocky terraces of Grotta Arpaia.
Justo off the promontory lie the tiny islands of Palmaria, Tino and
Tinetto.
At the southeastern end of the Riviera di Levante, Lerici is an exclusive
summer refuge for wealthy Italians. From Lerici a scenic 3km coastal
stroll leads north to San Terenzo, a seaside village with a sandy
beach and Genoese castle. Another coastal stroll, 4km south, takes
you past magnificent little bays to Tellaro, a fishing hamlet.
Val di Magra forms the easternmost tongue of Ligurian territory. Nature
walks abound in this region, much of which is protected by the Parco
di Montemarcello-Magra which has an information centre in Sarzana.
Stretching southwest from Genoa to France, the Riviera di Ponente
is more developed than the eastern side. Savona’s medieval centre
is dominated by the baroque Cattedrale di Nostra Signora Assunta.
With a good beach and affordable accomodation, Finale Ligure is a
handy base for exploring the Riviera di Ponente. Finale Marina, on
the waterfront, is where most hotels and restaurants languish. In
addition to 3km of white beaches pretty Alassio boasts its own variety
of baci, sugary concoctions comprising two biscuits whirls sandwiched
together with chocolate cream. Imperia is the main city of Liguria’s
westernmost province, commonly known as the Riviera dei Fiori. San
Remo gained prominence as a resort for Europe’s social elite,
in the mid to late 19th century. Today, although a few hotels thrive
as luxury resorts, many from that period are long past their prime
and are cut off from the beach by the railway line. In September is
held the Rallye San Remo. A few kilometres west of San Remo is built
up Bordighera. Bordighera’s fame rests on a centuries-old monopoly
of the Holy Week palm business. The Vatican selects its branches exclusively
from the palms along the promenade, Lungomare Argentina. Ventimiglia’s
Roman ruins include an amphitheatre. Its medieval town squats on a
hill on the western bank of the River Roia.
Accomodation in the holiday region
Italian Riviera